Monday, May 31, 2010

Los Arcos to Logrono

I was in pretty bad shape by the tmie we set off this morning. Leonie was still limping along with blisters and I was going super slowly because of feeling under the weather with puffy oozy bed bug sores everywhere. We had agreed a day or two ago that we would go only to Viana, then found out last night that the albergue had three tier bunks and got extremely crowded. Neither of us could stand the thought of that but someone assured us that there were other accommodation options in Viana. So off we limped.

We arrived at around 11.45 and went to the tourist information centre. They advised of three other options.
option 1 was full, option 2 was a small smokey room. That left option three which was on the way out of town. I was pretty clear we had to decide now to take option three regardless, or else stop now and have a good long lunch break before limping on another 9km to Logrono.

So option three it was. And I guess in hindsight that was the start of the end for Leonie and me walking together.  When we got to the place on the way out of town Leonie refused to look at the place and said she just wanted to walk on. I simply had to stop. On top of the unwell bed bug thing an extremely cold wind blew up and my period arrived out of the blue. I stopped on the side of the road and Leonie walked on.

When I finally met up with her 9km later we went to the refugio only to find it full. Fortunately there was another private place (just aother 2km walk!). So by the time we got there, I needed a pharmacy and tampons, dressings and stuff to tend to myself. Leonie lay down on her bed right away. I had a shower and left again in search of supplies. When I returned Leonie was asleep and remained so for the remainder of the night.

The next morning we set off and hadn´t gone far before Leonie burst into tears having discovered she had lost her camera and then launched into me because she hadn´t eaten the previous night. That lifted the lid on a pile of stuff. She was angry about the water incident from 5days ago and said the feeling was bad between us. I honestly was not feeling badly towards Leonie. (What I didn´t say in the earlier post was that Leonie had 2 fresh bottles of water and, knowing that I had none, had not shared hers. I felt hurt and angry and later that evening told her so. She was unapologetic and angry that I was angry. There really didn´t seem anything to be gained by a futile conversation and I said I wasn´t willing to discuss it anymore. I was over it. She said she would drop it too. But obviously by the resentment that blew up in my face 5 days later and her saying the feeling had been bad, she had  been feeling bad towards me all that time)

We each have our version of events. The upshot of it is Leonie decided as we left Logrono that she wanted to walk by herself, at least for a day and maybe for the Camino. But I am getting ahead of myself because all this is relaly happening as we are leaving Logrono.

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