Rabanal to Moliniseca

After a night in the Camino´s supposedly best albergue it was up and at em bright and early. There was a cold day with late rain predicted so I thought I would try and get out the door in good time.

The day began with a steep climb up to what had been, until recently, a deserted village (Foncebadon) and with wild dogs running in packs. It would seem that over the last few years the Camino has become more popular and the dogs have got used to the pilgrims. They were definitely around and I had my sticks at the ready but they weren´t the slightest bit interested in me. Also the population would appear to be up to about 10 by  now. There was nowhere for coffee so it was just a walk through.

About 3kms past Foncebadon I got to the Crux. It is a huge cross in a mound of stones. Originally intended as a marker for pilgrims lost in the mist it has now become a destination for everyone´s hopes and dreams and prayers for the Camino. I am the original pilgrim, hence did not bring a stone from home or a picture of anyone to nail to the cross but did need it as a marker as it was very thick fog for most of today´s walk. When you see the pics you will hopefully know what I mean. Most of the time I could see only a tiny bit in front of me. It reminded me of Scotland - all heather and misty rain; beautiful in its own way but then I am sure the view would have been as well.

I was wearing all the layers and the mist was so thick it was wetting so also ended up stopping to put on the dreaded rain suit pants.

The cross is just a few metres from the highest point on the camino (circa 5000 feet)

I was talking about small villlages so this is an opportune to mention the smallest village on the camino - population 1! This guy has been set up just passed the cross in a village that is even marked on the map but is just an albergue. It has no electricity or running water and is described as environmentally friendly. I would never have stayed there but it was a welcome sight after a long climb in the freezing mist.

I had a cup of coffee and the most amazing home made apricot ball - all help yourself and drop a donation into the box. Even had a majestic and what a majestic it was.

Again pics will tell the story but there was even a sign saying not to put paper in the hole as it was a fire risk. New one on me! Best of all was just a tad of privacy instead of baring all to the rocky heather!

Another hour or so on from there was a lovely village with a spacious cafe and as it was just down from the top of mountain a bit of a clearing of the mist. Stopped for some soup and to take off a few misty wet layers. I could have stopped altogether but it was strill early so I decided to get stuck into the long descent into Molinaseca.

Suddenly it was a whole new day; sunshine and people swimming!